"CELL PHONES?? WTF!!" Sigh. Yes. AT&T customers had a decent shot at cell phone coverage on the playa this year. This marks a particularly sad bit of evolution for my beloved city, where phones have not worked before. One afternoon as we were sitting in camp, from inside Brantley's van came the unmistakeable warbling of a Nokia phone. We looked at each other in horror, experiencing perhaps the deepest "there goes the neighborhood" moment either of us had ever felt.