Last stop folks! We are now in Kolkata
. That's the modern name for this city, anyway – but most everyone there and throughout India still call it Calcutta. By the time I arrived here, I had been moving according to a pretty aggressive schedule for more than three weeks. I was exhausted and did not see nearly enough of this city. But one thing was obvious from the get-go: the Calcutta of 2010 is a very dirty, very crowded place, with a deeply Indian form of urban decay on display pretty much everywhere you look.