So the university student who was showing me around Varanasi after dark brought me here, saying, “Look! Very famous sitar maker! This room is his shop and factory!” So I poked my head in here, and sure enough, dude’s crafting a sitar. I asked if I could take his picture. He gave me a very stern look. “You take my picture once, it costs 200 rupees!” Then he broke into a grin. “You take my picture twice, it costs you nothing at all!” So this is picture number one . . .